Trip Day 3

Thoughts on U.S. in world

From the vantage point of Europe, I have an increased appreciation for the forces for democracy outside the United States, especially for former captives of the Soviet Union and Warsaw bloc—but also in countries such as Spain, which is enjoying the longest stretch of democracy in its history. Today, I’ll share some brief thoughts as the U.S. chooses decline and even humiliation (Donald Trump is effectuating it, but Americans chose him). I will also share some highlights of my trip.

The shrinking U.S. president—and presence

We’ve recently seen determined Central and Eastern Europeans turn out in support of a pro-Western, unified, and democratic Europe. In Albania, Prime Minister Edi Rama, a socialist who promised to bring Albania into the EU by 2030, secured a fourth term by a large margin against former Prime Minister Sali Berisha. The heavily monitored election was peaceful and secure. Albania’s struggle to throw off authoritarian shackles and embrace Western-style democratic capitalism should inspire democracy defenders who remember Albania as a Communist stalwart and rabid anti-Western holdout until 1992.

Meanwhile, Serbs have been turning out en masse, originally triggered by the collapse of a railway bridge that exposed the ruling regime’s underlying incompetence and corruption. “Protests demanding those responsible be held to account began almost instantly and continued through the winter, spreading across the country,” Filip Balunovic, a research fellow at the University of Belgrade, wrote for the New York Times. A cross-section of society has found common ground, adopted creative expressions of democratic support (e.g., a marathon run from Belgrade to Brussels), and pressed for early elections.

The bravery and fortitude of these countries and the EU’s willingness to sustain Ukraine and the cause of democracy should inspire Americans, who experience far less onerous conditions, to rise up against our own corrupt, authoritarian leadership. (Meanwhile, the Romanian pro-democracy forces prevailed in the rerun election of a previously annulled contest against anti-EU candidate George Simion, who opposes Ukraine aid).

In sum, countries that know the horror of jackbooted totalitarian thugs remain committed to pro-Western and pro-democratic values, despite MAGA Republicans’ buffoonish fumbles and pathetic performance. Trump longs to play the role of tin pot dictator, complete with grift, incoherent, rambling speeches, and threats to cultural figures and politicians who challenge him. As he flails away on the international stage and suffers serial defeats at home, several things become evident.

First, his authoritarian project is failing. On Friday, he received another slap down from the Supreme Court, which clarified that not only would no deportations go forward until the due process rights of all deportees could be determined (suggesting the Trump’s crew’s idea of due process was sorely lacking) but that the Fifth Circuit needed to decide whether the Alien Enemies Act had been properly invoked for the entire class of potential deportees. With Justice Brett Kavanaugh siding with the majority and wanting a quick disposition on the merits, the days of giving Trump free rein to play games may end.

Second, watching Trump put up his “for sale” sign may be revolting, but keen observers will recognize it as a function of his cringeworthy weakness. How else to interpret Saudi Arabia’s deployment of excessive swag and flattery (all while pretending Trump is sane), while the U.S. gets nothing out of his travels? Trump’s actual influence on the world scene has shriveled. He snubbed Israel; Prime Minister Bibi Netanyahu continues his relentless, interminable destruction of Gaza. Trump is trying to unplug USAID; China fills the vacuum in the developing world. Trump abandoned and ridiculed Ukraine; his vow to end the war is a laugh line. Trump has convinced allies that the U.S. is utterly unreliable. The EU is finding its way without us. We are a power in decline.

And third, Trump has utterly failed to govern. His dictatorial decrees are largely tied up in court, while his own party has proven itself divided by his big, beautiful (disastrous) bill. Moody’s recognized us as a second-rate power in downgrading our credit. Between failure to seamlessly pass a budget and his on-again-off-again tariffs (still far higher than when he took office), Trump’s record spells disaster for his party’s midterm prospects. MAGA’s scheme to slash Medicaid and immobilize Social Security has backfired. He is an albatross around cringing Republicans’ necks and fodder for dictators’ argument that democracies cannot govern themselves.

Thank goodness for Europe.

Valencia roundup

Let me catch you up on our stay in Valencia. The city is a brilliant example of determined urban renewal and a focus on quality of life. The city, Spain’s third largest, had deteriorated over time, lost its economic oomph, and declined as a destination spot. Then, in the 1990s, a conscious effort to revive the city got underway. And boy, has it exceeded.

By removing cars and making a whole slew of pedestrian streets and enlarged plazas, city planners created a much more livable city (quieter, less congested, and more aesthetically pleasing). Establishing itself as the greenest city in Europe in 2024, hosting international sports competitions, and receiving the honor from Pope Francis of holding a Jubilee celebration every five years only elevated its stature.

The result is a dream travel spot. The distances are small within the old city (making taxis, public transportation, or car rental unnecessary). Outside of very hot weeks at the height of summer, the weather is ideal, and the local cuisine (which lays claim to paella) is delightful and very modestly priced. (Fusion Peruvian/Japanese and Spanish/Korean dinners were delicious.)

The City of Arts and Sciences, designed by architect Santiago Calatrava, is an architectural marvel and a cultural magnet, which revitalized the entire neighborhood and, in turn, the city itself. Buy a multi-day ticket to enjoy a gorgeous aquarium, hemisphere (observatory), and science museum if you have the time. The Opera House is extraordinary as well, and offers tours if you cannot catch a performance.

Valencia’s world-class museums cover the sweep of Spanish art and also highlight its specific cultural heritage. Don’t miss the outstanding silk museum as well as the ceramics museum—both recommended by our superb city guide. The Fine Arts museum has both a solid collection of masters (Van Dyke, Goya, Velasquez, etc.) and homegrown brilliant painters you may not have seen (Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida is my favorite). The modern art museum has inventive, eye-catching exhibits of Spanish artists.

A few specific suggests: 1) visit the magnificent central market (it’s food voyeurism of the best kind!); 2) take a day trip out to historic Sagunto—which feature Roman ruins, a castle build up over multiple centuries and civilizations, and evidence of the Jewish community, including a mikva from the middle ages (!); and 3) enjoy the A+ gelato…I told you: it’s a must-have for me!